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Visit Brian's Beer Blog for all new reviews. from Summer 2008 Guide to Dining: With so many summer beers to choose from in North Idaho, resident "Brew-Roo" Brian Smith will help make your decision a thirst quencher. Great summer beers should be crisp, refreshing, and food-friendly, with light to medium body, moderate alcohol, and packed with aroma and flavor. The best summer models hail from Germany and Belgium. For quality summer quaffing, no style outshines the wheat-based brews developed in these beer-loving countries. Summer Wheat Most beers are made with at least some malted barley. With a hard husk and relative lack of glutens, barley performs poorly in the bakery but is ideal for beer brewing. Wheat is the exact opposite: The grain has no encasement and is rich in glutens and proteins useful in bread-making, but it tends to gum up the brewing process. In fact, it’s almost impossible to make beer solely from wheat. In the Middle Ages, when all beer production was micro, farmer-brewers rarely had the luxury to choose which grain to use. In southern Germany and present-day Belgium, wheat was part of the mix. It was discovered that including a proportion of wheat in the mash leads to a highly desirable beverage, a lighter-body with refreshing, thirst-quenching acidity. A great beer style for the hot weather evolved. Because of the paler color and yeasty haze of these ales, compared with darker beers, people called them "white" beers - witbier or bière blanche in Belgium, and Weissbier in Germany. Keep Your Wit A holdover from the spice trade era (15th and 16th centuries), Belgian witbier is brewed from malted barley and raw wheat, and spiced with coriander and Curaçao bitter orange peel. Hops come into play now, but subtly. A bright, refreshing style that almost died out after WWII, this hazy, pale yellow-gold beer has made a big comeback in its homeland and has many imitators in the U.S. and elsewhere. Even Coors Brewing Co. puts out a Belgian-style white under the Blue Moon label. Weizen Up Go to any outdoor café or Biergarten in Bavaria during the warm weather, and you’ll find scores of tall, slender glasses used solely for Weissbier bearing insignias from breweries like Schneider, Franziskaner, and Weihenstephaner (the world’s oldest brewery - since 1040!) While there are various styles of Weiss or Weizen (wheat), including the oxymoronic Dunkelweiss (literally dark-white), the Hefeweizen (yeast-wheat) is the choice for the summer. This bottle-conditioned beer contains unfiltered yeast sediment, accounting for the cloudy appearance and full flavor. Most Hefes are brewed with at least 50% malted wheat and are delicately hopped with aromatic, citric strains. Unlike their Belgian colleagues, German brewers still observe the German Beer Purity Law of 1516, meaning spices and other flavorings besides hops are verboten in the brewing process. Yet the Hefes are often chock-full of fruity and spicy elements, ranging from fresh apples and banana, to cloves and nutmeg. The responsible agent: ancient strains of yeast, enhancing the natural fruity arc of the wheat. These beers are arguably best on a hot day. Fruity, spicy, and geyserlike in carbonation, Hefes are second to none with spicy ethnic foods, especially Mexican, Chinese, and Indian. BRIAN’S BREW PICKS FOR SUMMER Last year I gave kudos to Coors with their Blue Moon Belgian-style wheat ale which is now a favorite for many beer consumers year round. This year, I’d like to give their competition a mention. Beach Bum Blonde Ale Anheuser-Busch’s Beach Bum Blonde Ale is available for a second year in bottles and some taps around town. An all-malt, traditional American blonde, this ale draws its deep golden color from pale and caramel roasted barley malt. It’s brewed with imported Alsace and Hallertau hops, as well as Cascade hops from the Pacific Northwest. Using a dry-hopping technique, hops are not only added to the brew kettle, but also the aging tank, giving a distinct and pronounced hop aroma. The slight malty sweetness makes it a delicious complement to barbecue dishes, fresh salads and fish. To showcase its deep, golden color, enjoy this seasonal ale in a pub-style glass. Summer Honey (Great on Tap) Big Sky Brewery’s Summer Honey is a full-flavored summer seasonal ale. Brewed during the early days of spring and released around the first of May each year, it includes a unique blend of spices, Northwest Hops, and Montana honey. Light colored, light bodied, and very drinkable, Summer Honey is a flavorful beer that can be enjoyed during the height of summer. Pyramid’s Curve Ball Inspired by traditional Kölsch style beers of Cologne, Germany, Curve Ball boasts a clean, crisp, slightly herbal taste and lighter body. With its new and improved taste to compete with other citrus summer beers, Curve Ball is a perfect accompaniment to summer grilling. Skinny Dip I have to use their verbiage because it’s so witty... "New Belgium’s Skinny Dip is a full-bodied, figure-friendly beer that’s designed for the summer dress code. With the same amount of calories as most light beers, it makes this brew perfect for the lightly attired summer months. Cascade hops frolic with kaffir lime and ample malt to create a bright, citrusy nose that’s as crisp as chilling in a mountain pond. If you like the taste of Fat Tire, you will love this brew. Skinny Dip is a most revealing beverage." Wailua Wheat Ale Kona Brewing Company’s Wailua Wheat Ale is a golden, sun colored ale with bright, citrusy flavor hailing from tropical passion fruit added late in the brewing process. It’s slightly tart, with a delicate fruity flavor, fresh citrus aroma and crisp finish. This is an excellent beer to enjoy after a day on the water or even after mowing the lawn. It pairs well with lighter fare like grilled fish and shrimp, roasted chicken, salads and Asian foods. The packaging is eye catching, featuring a Wailua Falls scene from old Hawaii. Summer Solstice Seasonal Ale My favorite, though hard to find, summertime beer is Anderson Valley’s Summer Solstice Seasonal Ale. This copper colored ale is smooth, malty, and lightly sweet, with a delicate hint of spice for that oh-so-drinkable, extra velvety flavor. The character is lighter in body than its cousin, their popular Winter Solstice Seasonal Ale. This beer is silky and creamy, perfect for our warm weather. Shiner Summer Stock Another favorite, even harder to locate, is from the makers of Shiner Bock, Spoetzl Brewery’s Shiner Summer Stock. This brew has brilliant clarity and a light yellow color. The aroma is of soft, sweet malt with a hint of caramel and slight scent of pear ester. The flavor is soft and gentle with fresh pale malt and a hint of lightly toasted sweet bread. The beer is extremely well balanced, sweet, but with a pepper-like hop edge. This is such a delicate beer there is no room for flavor flaws to hide.
from Winter 2007 Guide to Dining: Beer is associated more with cooling off than warming up. Asking for “a cold one” leaves few in doubt as to what beverage is desired. So what to do when winter’s chill arrives? Warm up with a “strong one”… a hearty winter brew. Local “Brew-roo”, Brian Smith, will help you with your choices. Brewing beer has historically been a specialty of regions where winters are harsh and grains are grown, like Germany and the British Isles. For centuries, brewers have made seasonal beers for winter that are fuller in body and maltier than standard styles. Some are festively spiced, others are simply turbocharged versions of year-round recipes. Malty winter warmers have less water in the mix delivering more nutrition and higher alcohol than summer quenchers. These beers are best served no cooler than 50o, which is ideal for showcasing their flavors. Serving “ice cold” suppresses flavor; a good strategy only if you’re not keen to taste your beer. Brian’s winter brew picks can be found in many grocery stores and delis in North Idaho including Daanen’s and Moose Market. Brian’s seasonal brew picks: Winterbraun, from the Lost Coast Brewery in Eureka, CA, is a full bodied brown ale with a rich chocolate taste created from roasted chocolate and caramel malts. Czech saaz hops give it a spicy flavor. The beer has a dark mahogany color with tan head and a medium body with sharp, but mild, carbonation. The finish is roughly sweet, with some bitter to balance and a slight hint of coffee. Relatively smooth as brown ales go. Samuel Adams Winter Lager from The Boston Beer Company is a spiced lager or Weizenbock. Highly carbonated and spiced, this lager triggers cravings for gingerbread and egg nog. Walnut malt flavors with subtle notes of cinnamon and orange peel make this beer fit seamlessly into the beer drinker’s routine. Another great beer from the Boston Beer Company is Samuel Adams Holiday Porter. A traditional, British style beer that is robust and full bodied. With it’s rich malt complexity it has become a favorite among our winter seasonal brews. In total, five varieties of malted barley are used in the brewing process including a variety of German malt called Carafa. Thirty-third Annual Christmas Ale, from the Anchor Brewing Co. in San Francisco who are also the brewers of Anchor Steam Beer. Every year since 1975 the brewers have created a distinctive and unique Christmas Ale, which is available from early November to mid-January. The Ale’s recipe is different every year, as is the tree on the label. Jubelale, the first beer ever bottled by Deschutes Brewery, is a festive winter ale. Highly anticipated every fall, it’s in a category of its own with a flavor and following that is impossible to match. Dark crystal malt creates a luscious holiday note while the roasty flavor and bountiful hops excite your tastebuds. Jubelale is the perfect holiday beer and only available October through December. Winterhook, from the Red Hook Brewery in Woodinville, WA, has a rich, full body and deep chestnut color which makes it the perfect beer for chilly winter days. The taste is not far from from the aroma, producing a strong pine flavor, with a slight citrus kick. Along with hints of chocolate and caramel, the alcohol is completely concealed and the flavor was inviting and interesting without overpowering. 2°Below Winter Ale from the New Belgium Brewing Company in Colorado (who also brew Fat Tire) created this seasonal beer with a bright, warming blast of Sterling and Liberty hops. By pushing this beer into a final, nearly freezing state, its ample structure develops a brilliant clarity. Dry-hopping during fermentation creates a rosy, floral nose with a hint of pepper spice and subtle, estery undertones. Brian’s favorite winter beer (best on tap) is still Snow Cap, from the Pyramid Brewery in Washington. A rich, full-bodied winter warmer crafted in the British tradition of holiday beers. This deep mahogany colored brew balances complex fruit flavors with a refreshingly smooth texture, making it a highly drinkable and desirable cold weather companion. It has a warming 7.0% alcohol by volume. The Malts: 2-Row Barley, Caramel, Chocolate malt. The Hops: Willamette, East Kent Goldings. Availability: Mid October - January. Funniest Winter Beer Label this year is Ridgeway Brewing’s Warm Welcome from England with a classic Christmas painting of Santa coming down from the chimney while the fire was still ablaze. Besides the government warning on the label, it has some other great literature to read to your holiday guests.
from Summer 2007 Guide to Dining:
Alaskan Summer Ale is based on the traditional style of Kölsch beer brewed in Cologne, Germany. It balances a softly malted palate with the clean freshness of Hallertauer hops. Both hops and malt come together to refresh and renew the palate. The straw-gold color and easy drinkability are an enjoyable way to celebrate summer. Pyramid’s Hefe Weizen is left unfiltered for extra flavor and aroma. Handcrafted with 60% malted wheat (10% more than Bavarian tradition calls for), the award-winning Hefe Weizen is unsurpassed in quality and is exceptionally smooth and refreshing. This is America’s first original hefeweizen and is normally served with a slice of lemon. Pyramid’s Curve Ball is also inspired by traditional Kölsch style beers. Curve Ball boasts a clean, crisp, slightly herbal taste and a lighter body making it the perfect accompaniment to summer grilling and ballpark outings. Big Sky’s Summer Honey (Great on Tap) is a full-flavored seasonal ale which helps us shake off winter. It’s brewed during the early days of spring and released around the first of May. Light colored, light bodied and very drinkable, Summer Honey sacrifices nothing to create a flavorful beer that can be enjoyed during the height of the summer. Samuel Adams Summer Ale is an American wheat ale that uses malted wheat as well as lemon zest and grains of paradise, a rare pepper from Africa, to create a crisp and spicy flavor and body. The ale fermentation imparts a tropical fruit note reminiscent of mangos and peaches. All of these come together to create a quenching, clean finishing beer perfect for summer days. From the makers of Fat Tire, New Belgium’s Skinny Dip is a full-bodied, figure-friendly beer designed for the summer dress code. With the same amount of calories as most light beers, it’s perfect for the lightly attired summer months. Cascade hops, kaffir lime and ample malt create a bright, citrusy nose that’s as crisp as chilling in a mountain pond. New Belgium’s Sunshine Wheat is a great beer for quenching thirst. Ripples of coriander and orange peel tartness settle nicely into a tranquil sea of apple and honey tones. A filtered wheat beer it’s a crisp, refreshing alternative to heavier-bodied heffe-weizens. Its silky pale golden color seems to beckon, “forget the half-finished lawn, kill the mower and come hither overworked one.” Brian’s “all time” favorite beer (and a must try) is Pilsner Urquell from the Czech Republic. With a fragrant, slightly sweet aroma, Pilsner Urquell evokes images of grain, flowers and Bohemian sky. A hint of bitterness accompanies a buttery sensation. It’s best served chilled in order to complement the striking clarity and flavor. Just like summers in North Idaho, it’s gone all too quickly, leaving a powerful thirst for more of the same. from Winter 2006 Guide to Dining: Brewing seasonal beers predates modern history with origins in pagan celebrations of winter solstice. Later, as monasteries often functioned as the local brewery, monks made the first holiday beers to celebrate the birth of Christ. Beers best for fending off the cold such as olde ales, strong ales, barley wines and heavy lagers are often associated with winter. Today’s variety of seasonal brews offers the perfect winter warmer for any beer enthusiast. The Guide to Dining’s resident beer expert, Brian Smith, shares a few of his favorites. Most can be found at delis, grocery stores or in pubs. Brian’s seasonal brew picks: Moose Drool, from the Big Sky Brewery in Montana is chocolate brown in color with a creamy texture. A malty beer with just enough hop presence to keep it from being too sweet. Drop Top Amber, from the Widmer Brothers Brewing Co. in Oregon has a rich, clean flavor and fruity aroma. The velvet texture is from Honey malt and a touch of milk sugar. The hops provide soft bitterness. Saison, Brian’s new fall favorite from the New Belgium Brewing Company in Colorado is pale bronze in color, slightly spicy and delicately hopped. It has a sweet, malty note along with herbal tones. The finish is surprisingly dry. Alaskan Winter Ale, from the Alaskan Brewing Co., is an English Olde Ale. Traditionally malty with the warming sensation of alcohol, Olde Ales are brewed in the fall as winter warmers. This ale balances a sweet heady aroma of spruce tips with the clean crisp finish of hops. From the seafaring adventurers of the 1700s to the home brewers of today, adding spruce tips to beer has a rich history in Alaska. Snowplow, from the Widmer Brothers Brewing Co. in Oregon is a Milk Stout. Characterized by it’s dark chocolate, coffee, roasted malt aromas, milk sugar and flavorings, this Stout provides silky, smooth warmth for the winter season. Powder Hound, Winter Ale from the Big Sky Brewery in Montana is a seasonal beer with a rich malt taste. Made with hand-selected British hops that complement the smooth malt notes. Big Sky Brewery calls this beer their “Northern Rockies Strong Ale” Available November - March. Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale, from the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company in California pours an orange-copper with a slight head. Robust hops are balanced by a roasted malt aroma. There’s a slight sweetness of caramel and cinnamon. The taste has citrus notes and is very balanced. It’s crisp, thorough palate coverage follows with a bitter finish. Winter Welcome Ale, from Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery in England, is vintage-dated with a special label each year. Serve in a traditional tankard for the holidays. Honey-amber-colored, creamy head of small bubbles, floral aroma and delicious malt flavor with great finesse. On tap for the winter months, Brian recommends Snow Cap from the Pyramid Brewery in Washington. Rich and full-bodied crafted in the British tradition of holiday beers. Deep mahogany color with complex fruit flavors and a smooth texture. A highly drinkable and desirable cold weather companion, it has a warming 7% alcohol by volume and is available mid October - January.
from Summer 2006 Guide to Dining: What do a Slow Elk, Flying Dog, Happy Cow, Hot Chihuahua, Bad Goat and a Dead Guy have in common? Along with Moose Drool, they're some of the Northwest's favorite microbrewed ales. Back in 1987 when Tom Fisher opened T.W. Fisher's Brew Pub on the corner of Second and Lakeside in Coeur d'Alene, it was the first in Idaho and one of only a handful of brewpubs in the country. Their flagship beer, Centennial Pale Ale, coincided with Idaho's own centennial celebration. Tom's first taste of microbrew was at Paddy's Bar in Coeur d'Alene when he tried a Pyramid Snow Cap ale and the rest is local brewing history.
Around the time T.W.'s opened, Brian Smith was on an Alaska Airline flight to Portland when he was offered a free promotional bottle of a new microbrew from the Portland Brewing Company. Sampling generously before landing, he became a fan of the unique taste. Both Tom and Brian advise newcomers to the microbrew experience to approach it as an adventure similar to the culture the wine industry has cultivated. Visiting area breweries like Ponderay's Laughing Dog Brewery and the Coeur d'Alene Brewing Company is a good start. Order a "flight" of brews to sample the specialties. Major breweries saw a good thing and in recent years bought out some of the micro breweries, creating regional breweries that now produce thousands of barrels of beer distributed in several states.
Tom appreciates the craftsmanship involved in producing fine beers and praises those brewmeisters in the area for their quality products. While still loyal to Miller Lite, longtime sponsors of his softball team, Tom's taste in beer has expanded through the years. He says that half the time he'll order a light beer for half the calories. Brian's favorite "domestic" beer is actually brewed just across the Canadian border. Kokanee is a product of the Columbia Brewing Company in Creston, BC, which is a fun place to take a guided tour. He suggests bringing a designated driver and making a trip of it, through Sandpoint with a stop at Mick Duff's Brewing Company on your way north. Another expert observation is that while domestic beers taste best when served ice cold, not so with the micros, a consideration during the warmer summer months. You don't have to know how to pronounce Hefeweizen or that IPA refers to India Pale Ale, a complex four-malt blend with a bold taste, to enjoy the brewpub experience. An appreciation of cleverly-named and full-flavored brews is the ticket to the area's top taps. Tom's Tops
Brian's Best
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